Winter Bike Tires and Studded Tires: Studs, Pressure and Break-In

You need studded bike tires if ice is part of your route and you can’t always see it or ride around it: freeze-thaw mornings, shaded bike paths, rutted ice on side streets, frozen trails. Rubber alone, even a soft winter compound with sipes, slides on clear ice. If your winter means cold, wet pavement and the odd dusting of snow, a non-studded winter tire rolls faster and quieter.

Stud count follows the ice. Commuter tires with about 90 to 140 studs handle patchy ice on cleared roads. Tires with 200 to 260 studs suit regular ice, rutted snow and untreated paths. Tires with 370 to 408 studs are built for icy singletrack and frozen lakes. If you buy only one, fit it to the front wheel. Run new studs in for about 40 to 50 km before you lean on them, and drop the pressure toward the tire’s minimum on ice.

Icebike has covered winter riding since 1998. The figures below come from the makers’ own spec pages (Schwalbe, Suomi Tyres, 45NRTH and Continental, checked October 15, 2026) and from Icebike’s archive, labeled where used.

Do you need studded bike tires? Match the tire to the surface

Pick the tire for the worst surface you ride at least once a week. 45NRTH calls studs a smart choice wherever temperatures swing around freezing, because melt refreezes into ice you can’t see. It also lists the cases where you may not need them: dry winters, places that rarely drop below freezing, and riders who stay on groomed snow trails with frequent fresh snow.

Your usual winter surface What grips Tire to choose
Cold, dry or wet pavement, salted roads Rubber that stays soft in the cold Non-studded winter or all-season tire
Cleared roads with ice patches at junctions, bridges and shade Studs that touch down when you lean or slip Light studding, about 90 to 140 studs
Freeze-thaw black ice, untreated bike paths, frozen ruts Studs in contact upright and leaned over Full studding, about 200 to 260 studs
Packed snow over ice Tread depth plus studs Full studding on a wider tire
Loose or deep snow Width and low pressure more than metal Wide tire or fat bike tire, studded if ice sits underneath
Icy singletrack, frozen lakes, winter racing Studs across the whole tread Maximum studding, about 370 to 408 studs

The stud ranges are Icebike’s grouping of current models, set out by size below. To run your own route through the same logic, use the studded tire selector: it weighs ice frequency, snow depth, how much of the ride is pavement and your bike type.

Skip studs if you would ride them on dry pavement nine days out of ten. Schwalbe’s own suggestion for riders who rarely see ice is to fit studded tires to a second bike and choose the bike each morning.

Studded vs non-studded winter tires

A non-studded winter tire relies on a cold-weather compound and sipes, the thin cuts in the tread blocks. Schwalbe’s Marathon 365 is that kind of tire: the maker describes a siped tread for “cold, wet and snowy conditions”, and it carries no metal. On clear ice the difference is metal. Schwalbe says only winter tires with spikes give you safe grip on snow and ice, and 45NRTH adds that studs still don’t match the grip of a dry road, so you need to allow extra stopping distance.

How many studs does a bike tire need?

Icebike’s rule of thumb: most commuters do well with 200 to 260 studs, riders on cleared city streets can drop to about 90 to 140, and only icy trail riders need 370 or more. Makers sell the same tread with different counts: Suomi Tyres builds its Routa in 42-622 (700×42) with 124 or 248 studs, and Continental names its Contact Spike tires by count: 120 or 240. Fewer studs means less noise, weight and pavement wear; more studs means more of them touch the ice at any moment.

Maker and model Sizes (ETRTO / common name) Studs per tire Stud type
Suomi Tyres Routa (selected sizes) 35-622 (700×35), 42-622 (700×42), 50-622 (700×50), 54-584 (27.5×2.1), 47-507 (24 in), 47-406 (20 in); wider sizes up to 70-584 122 or 244; 124 or 248; 126 or 252; 126 or 244; 106 or 212; 176 or 88; wider sizes 128 to 260 Steel
Suomi Tyres Hile W240 32-622, 40-622, 54-622, 47-559 (26 in) 240 Full steel
Suomi Tyres Piikkisika 54-584 to 70-622 (27.5 and 29 in, 2.1 to 2.75 in wide) 372 to 408 Aluminum crown with hard-metal pin
Schwalbe Marathon Plus Spike 35-622 to 55-622, plus 26, 24 and 20 in sizes Up to 240 Tungsten carbide core
Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro 54-559, 57-584, 57-622, 65-622 (26, 27.5 and 29 in) Up to 402 Tungsten carbide; aluminum-bodied spikes listed
45NRTH Xerxes 700×30 140 Carbide steel, low profile
45NRTH Gravdal 700×45, 700×38, 650×38, 26×2.0 240, 252, 240, 216 Carbide steel (wire bead) or concave carbide (tubeless)
45NRTH Kahva 27.5×2.1, 29×2.25 240, 252 Carbide steel or concave carbide
45NRTH Dillinger 5 (fat) 26×4.5, 26×4.6, 27.5×4.5 252, 258, 252 (unstudded versions too) Concave carbide aluminum or carbide steel

Counts change with size, so check the exact version: Schwalbe gives only “up to” figures. Continental’s Contact Spike 120 and Contact Spike 240 carry 120 or 240 spikes; Continental lists their sizes on its own site.

Skip the high counts if you ride mostly pavement. 45NRTH tells riders to avoid pavement after break-in because it wears studs faster, and a 400-stud tire puts that wear on far more metal.

Studded tires worth considering

One tire from the tables above for each common job. Icebike hasn’t ride-tested them; each pick rests on the maker’s published specs. Icebike earns a commission on Amazon purchases made through links in this section.

Schwalbe Marathon Winter Plus: mixed pavement and ice

Schwalbe Marathon Winter Plus 700x35C

Best for mixed commutes
Check current price

A commuter tire with up to 240 spikes and Schwalbe's thickest puncture layer, for riders who meet ice most weeks and bare, gritty pavement in between.

Pros

  • Up to 240 carbide-core spikes
  • 5 mm SmartGuard puncture layer

Cons

  • 920 g in 700x35C
  • Spike noise on bare roads at low pressure

Schwalbe now sells it as the Marathon Plus Spike, from 20 in to 29 in. Choose it over the Hile W240 if punctures worry you more than weight. Skip it for icy singletrack, where the Ice Spiker Pro’s higher count earns its weight.

Suomi Tyres Hile W240: narrow frames

The Suomi Tyres Hile W240 carries 240 full-steel studs and comes as narrow as 32-622 (700×32), made in Lieksa, Finland, for hybrids and gravel bikes with little room around the tire. Suomi Tyres lists a running pressure of 2.4 bar (35 psi). Skip it for icy singletrack, where Suomi’s own Piikkisika carries 372 to 408 studs.

45NRTH Gravdal: black-ice bike lanes

The 45NRTH Gravdal carries 252 studs in 700×38, with a tubeless version using concave carbide studs. In 2022, 45NRTH described the Gravdal’s studs as sitting “on the side lugs” for black-ice bike lanes, a layout that suits riders who lean into ice more than they brake straight on it. Skip it for frozen lakes and sheet ice, where center studs do the braking.

Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro: icy trails and frozen lakes

Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro 27.5x2.25

Best for icy trails
Check current price

Schwalbe's maximum-stud mountain bike tire, up to 402 spikes depending on size, for icy singletrack and frozen lakes where the ice never lets up.

Pros

  • Up to 402 spikes across the Ice Spiker Pro range
  • Winter rubber compound

Cons

  • Slow and loud on pavement
  • Mountain bike sizes only

Its closest rival, the Suomi Tyres Piikkisika, carries 372 to 408 studs. Schwalbe lists 26 to 54 psi (1.8 to 3.7 bar) for the current wire-bead 27.5×2.25 (57-584); the folding version the card links may differ. Skip it for commuting: 400 studs on asphalt add noise and wear with no gain on bare roads.

45NRTH Dillinger 5: fat bikes

45NRTH Dillinger 5 26x4.6

Best for fat bikes
Check current price

A 26x4.6 fat bike tire with 258 concave carbide studs, for snow-and-ice riding where you need float in soft snow and bite on the ice beneath.

Pros

  • 258 concave carbide aluminum studs
  • Tubeless; also sold unstudded

Cons

  • Not for power-assist bikes, per 45NRTH
  • Needs 70 to 100 mm rims

Against Schwalbe’s Al Mighty (26×4.80), which comes studded or spike-ready, the Dillinger 5 lists 258 studs on its spec sheet and uses a 120 TPI tubeless casing. Skip it on a fat e-bike: 45NRTH says the extra torque and weight cause early casing wear and stud loss.

Center studs vs shoulder studs: what each does on glare ice and in ruts

Where the studs sit matters as much as how many there are. 45NRTH places the Dillinger 4’s studs in the “transition and side lugs” and the Wrathlorde’s 300 in the “center, transition, and side lugs” for the iciest conditions. Suomi Tyres says it arranges the Piikkisika’s studs so the maximum number touch the ground at every moment.

Icebike’s reading of those layouts, from how a tire meets the ground:

  • Center studs touch down when the bike is upright. They do the work on glare ice when you ride straight, start from a stop or brake in a line, the moments a shoulder-only tire spends on bare rubber.
  • Shoulder studs touch down when you lean into a turn, when the tire slips sideways, and when the tread climbs the wall of a frozen rut. Shoulder-only tires roll quieter on pavement because the metal stays off the road while you ride upright.
  • Pressure moves the line. Lower pressure flattens the contact patch and brings shoulder studs onto the ice; higher pressure narrows it to the center. 45NRTH tells Xerxes riders to run minimum pressure for traction and maximum pressure for a quieter, faster ride on clean roads.

Icebike’s archive agrees. Crystal Waters found her side-studded Nashbar tires rolled with little noise or drag at 60 psi on hard surfaces, and an older Icebike screw-stud build guide told readers to skip the middle knobs, because center studs wear fastest and grip matters most in turns.

Choose center-plus-shoulder studding if you meet clear, flat ice: frozen lakes, sheet ice on paths, black ice at stop signs. Shoulder-weighted tires suit commuters on mostly bare roads who meet ice in patches and ruts. Studs only help if you ride the ice well; our guide to winter cycling techniques for snow and ice covers braking, cornering and ruts.

Carbide vs steel studs

Buy carbide-tipped studs if your tires will see any pavement. A stud has a body, which sits in the rubber, and a tip, which touches the ice. Makers put tungsten carbide in the tip for wear resistance, and some use aluminum bodies to cut weight.

  • Schwalbe says its spikes have a core of “extremely wear-resistant” tungsten carbide, that they sink a little and their corners round off over time, and that its studded tires last several thousand kilometers.
  • 45NRTH sells both “carbide steel” and concave carbide studs, depending on the tire version. Its guide says the concave studs’ aluminum base saves weight and resists corrosion, and offers XL studs for deep winter, Large for all-round trails and Standard for commuting.
  • Suomi Tyres fits full-steel studs to the Routa and Hile W240, and aluminum crown studs with a hard-metal pin to the Piikkisika, whose stud sockets are molded into the tread so the studs don’t come loose.

From the Icebike archive: the stud hardness test

Icebike mailing list members once sent studs from three tires to metallurgist Bill Dobson, who cut cross-sections and measured hardness with a diamond indenter. The Nokian and IRC studs used a steel body with a brazed insert; the Nashbar stud was a single piece of hardened steel.

Stud tested Construction Hardness (Knoop)
Nokian Steel body, brazed insert (likely carbide) 1,700
IRC Steel body, brazed insert (likely carbide) 1,400
Nashbar (that era’s tire) One-piece hardened steel 350

Dobson warned that the harder Nokian stud would not “last 5 times longer” than the Nashbar. He concluded only that the inserted studs were far more wear-resistant, and that he would expect the all-steel stud to wear on roads while holding up longer on dirt or ice. Nashbar later replaced the tire he tested. Riders’ reviews of the Nashbar and Nokian tires from the same period sit on Icebike’s studded tire archive page.

Skip the price premium for carbide only if your tires live on snow-covered trails and almost never touch pavement.

Sizes and fat bike options

Studded tires now come in every common wheel size from 20 in to 29 in and up to 4.8 in wide. Road bikes can run them if the frame clears 30 mm (45NRTH Xerxes) or 32 mm (Suomi Tyres Hile W240). Kids’ bikes are covered too: Schwalbe makes the Marathon Plus Spike in 20 in (42-406 and 55-406) and 24 in (47-507), and Suomi Tyres makes the Routa in both sizes.

On a 29er or plus bike, the Ice Spiker Pro (up to 29×2.60) and Piikkisika (up to 70-622) give maximum studding without fat bike clearance; fat bike options are in the picks above.

Before you order a wider winter tire, measure the frame, fork and fenders. Our bike tire clearance checker works out whether the new width fits with room for snow and slush.

Skip 45NRTH tires on an e-bike: its Xerxes, Kahva and Dillinger 5 pages advise against power-assist use. Suomi Tyres sells e-bike versions of the Routa.

Tire pressure on snow and ice

Run studded tires toward the bottom of the maker’s range on ice and snow, and toward the top on clear roads. Lower pressure puts more studs and more rubber on the surface. Higher pressure cuts stud noise and rolling drag: Schwalbe says to pump up when the roads clear, especially on its Marathon models. Never go below the minimum printed on the sidewall.

Tire and size Maker’s pressure range
Schwalbe Marathon Plus Spike 35-622 (700×35) 35 to 85 psi (2.5 to 6 bar)
Schwalbe Marathon Plus Spike 42-622 (700×42) 30 to 70 psi (2 to 5 bar)
Schwalbe Marathon Plus Spike 55-622 (29×2.15) 30 to 55 psi (2 to 4 bar)
Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro 57-622 (29×2.25), wire bead with tube 26 to 54 psi (1.8 to 3.7 bar)
Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro 57-622 (29×2.25), folding, tubeless 20 to 45 psi (1.5 to 3 bar)
Suomi Tyres Routa and Piikkisika Running pressure 36 psi (2.5 bar) with a tube, 33 psi (2.3 bar) tubeless. Maximum 73 psi (5.0 bar) with a tube, 51 psi (3.5 bar) tubeless.
Suomi Tyres Hile W240 Running pressure 35 psi (2.4 bar), maximum 73 psi (5.0 bar)
Schwalbe Al Mighty 26×4.80 (fat) Maximum 30 psi (2 bar)
45NRTH Dillinger 5 (fat) One figure per version: 30 psi (26×4.6), 20 psi (26×4.5 and 27.5×4.5)

We converted Suomi Tyres’ bar figures at 14.5 psi per bar. 45NRTH lists one psi figure per version without calling it a maximum; for its fat tires it can only be a ceiling.

Studded bike tire pressure by width: where to start on ice

These starting points are Icebike’s, built from the makers’ minimums above. Start here on ice, then add pressure in small steps if the tire feels vague or you hit the rim.

Tire width Start on ice Built from
30 to 35 mm (700×30 to 700×35) The sidewall minimum, about 35 psi Marathon Plus Spike 35-622 minimum 35 psi
38 to 42 mm 30 to 36 psi Marathon Plus Spike 42-622 minimum 30 psi; Suomi Tyres running pressure 36 psi with a tube
47 to 57 mm, with a tube Start at your tire’s printed minimum: 35 psi (50 mm) down to 26 psi (57 mm) Ice Spiker Pro 57-622 minimum 26 psi; Marathon Plus Spike 50-622 minimum 35 psi; Hile W240 running 35 psi
29×2.25, tubeless 20 to 26 psi Ice Spiker Pro tubeless folding minimum 20 psi
Fat bike, 4.5 to 4.8 in About 4 to 6 psi on snow 45NRTH’s “Rules of Fat” blog: rider Danielle Musto starts at 6 psi rear and 5.5 to 6 psi front on hard-packed snow, and drops to 5 psi rear and 4 to 4.5 psi front in loose snow

The same 45NRTH post warns against setting fat bike pressure indoors: cold outdoor air drops it further once you’re outside.

For a starting number based on your weight, tire width, surface and tube or tubeless setup, use our winter bike tire pressure calculator. If its result falls below the minimum on your sidewall (30 psi on most Marathon Plus Spike sizes), use the sidewall minimum. Skip the low end with inner tubes on rough, frozen ruts, where low pressure invites pinch flats.

How to break in studded tires

Ride new studded tires about 40 to 50 km (25 to 31 miles) on pavement, at an easy pace, before you trust them on ice, so the studs settle into their sockets. The makers agree on the method and differ on distance:

Maker Break-in advice Extra note
Schwalbe About 40 km (25 miles) on asphalt. Avoid sharp acceleration and abrupt braking. Sells replacement spikes with an insertion tool
Suomi Tyres The first 50 km (31 miles), not riding at extreme limits, so the studs bed in Most important on e-bikes with high-torque motors
45NRTH A few miles, slowly, on a firm surface such as asphalt, to seat the studs After break-in, avoid pavement where you can. Losing 5 to 10 studs in normal use is common.

Studded tire checklist

  1. Mount each tire following the rotation arrow on the sidewall, if it has one.
  2. Icebike’s suggestion: set pressure in the middle of the maker’s range for break-in.
  3. Ride 40 to 50 km on clean pavement with gentle starts and stops, before the first freeze if you can.
  4. Replace lost studs with the maker’s own studs and tool (Schwalbe and 45NRTH both sell them).
  5. Replace the tire when the stud corners are rounded off. Schwalbe says worn, rounded spikes lose grip on ice and snow.
  6. At the end of the season, clean the tires, oil the studs and store them at room temperature, as Suomi Tyres advises.

Our winter bike maintenance guide covers salt and grit on the rest of the bike.

In most places, yes. Schwalbe’s answer is that many countries restrict spikes on motor vehicles, while spikes on bicycles are generally allowed. Studded-tire laws are mostly date windows written with cars in mind. Washington state, for example, makes it unlawful to use metal studs between April 1 and November 1 under RCW 46.37.420, and the statute speaks of “any vehicle” without mentioning bicycles.

Check your own state, province or country if you ride studs on public roads outside winter, or if your e-bike is plated as a motor vehicle.

The cost of studs: noise, weight and rolling drag

None of the four makers publishes rolling resistance figures for studded tires, so compare weight: Schwalbe lists the Marathon Plus Spike 50-622 at 1,265 g against 1,100 g for the non-studded Marathon 365 in the same size. Part of that 165 g comes from the Plus Spike’s 5 mm SmartGuard layer. For the noise, Schwalbe and 45NRTH give the same fix: more pressure on clear roads.

Studs also cost money. Schwalbe’s recommended retail price starts at EUR 45.90 for the studless Marathon Plus and EUR 69.90 for the Marathon Plus Spike, which shares its SmartGuard layer: about EUR 24 more per tire for the studs. 45NRTH’s list prices run from $75 (Xerxes) and $80 (Gravdal) to $145 (Kahva) and $230 (Dillinger 5) per tire. Prices checked October 15, 2026.

Quick answers

Can you use just one studded tire?

Yes, and put it on the front. Icebike’s archive build guide put it plainly: a studded front tire keeps you upright, and studding the rear as well is better still. Our studded tire selector gives the same advice.

Do studded bike tires work on dry pavement?

Yes. Schwalbe says its spikes give secure grip on asphalt because they claw into it as they do into ice, and it suggests raising the pressure on clear roads to cut the spike noise. The cost is wear: 45NRTH tells riders to keep studded tires off pavement where they can after break-in.

How long do studded bike tires last?

Schwalbe says several thousand kilometers. Replace the tire once the stud corners have rounded off, because Schwalbe says worn, rounded spikes lose grip on ice and snow.

Can you put studded tires on a road bike?

Yes, if the frame clears at least 30 mm. Among the tires in this guide, the narrowest are the 45NRTH Xerxes (700×30, 140 studs) and the Suomi Tyres Hile W240 (32-622, 240 studs). Check clearance with fenders fitted.

Sources

  • Schwalbe. Winter Tires (Technology/FAQ) (accessed October 15, 2026). Up to 240 spikes on Marathon Winter Plus, Schwalbe Winter with half the spikes, Ice Spiker Pro up to 402, use on asphalt and pressure for noise, legality, run-in of about 40 km, tungsten carbide cores, wear and replacement, second-bike advice.
  • Schwalbe. Marathon Plus Spike, Ice Spiker Pro, Al Mighty and Marathon 365 and Marathon Plus product data (accessed October 15, 2026). Sizes, weights, minimum and maximum pressure, recommended retail prices, renaming of Marathon Winter Plus.
  • Suomi Tyres. Routa, Hile W240 and Piikkisika (accessed October 15, 2026). Sizes, stud counts and stud types.
  • Suomi Tyres. Winter Tyres User Guide (PDF, accessed October 15, 2026). Running and maximum pressures, 50 km running-in, e-bike note, storage.
  • 45NRTH. Stick It to Winter: A Guide to Studded Tires (October 27, 2021; accessed October 15, 2026). When studs help and when they don’t, concave stud types, break-in, pavement wear, stud shed.
  • 45NRTH. Our Top Three Studded Bicycle Tires (December 7, 2022; accessed October 15, 2026). Stud placement on Gravdal, Dillinger 4 and Wrathlorde.
  • 45NRTH. Rules of Fat: Dialing in Tire Pressure (Danielle Musto, March 1, 2016; accessed October 15, 2026). Fat bike starting pressures on hard-packed and loose snow; setting pressure indoors.
  • 45NRTH. Xerxes, Gravdal, Kahva and Dillinger 5 specifications (accessed October 15, 2026). Sizes, stud counts and types, pressure figures, list prices, power-assist warning, normal stud loss.
  • Continental. Contact Spike 120 and Contact Spike 240 (accessed October 15, 2026). Model names and spike counts (page descriptions: “with 120 spikes”, “with 240 spikes”).
  • Washington State Legislature. RCW 46.37.420, Tires: restrictions (accessed October 15, 2026).
  • Icebike archive. Nashbar Studded Tires and Nokian Winter Cycling Tires, including Crystal Waters’ Nashbar review. Bill Dobson’s stud hardness report for the Icebike mailing list and the screw-stud build guide appeared on earlier versions of this page.

Discussion

  1. Really well written and interesting article!

    However, since you mentioned being a metallurgist; what metal do the studs for winter tires come in? And what should I use to avoid rust?

    I had some winter tires before where the studs rusted. Causing stains on my floors as I have to bring the bike inside to park it.

    Thanks for any recommendations!

    1. Try the new 45Nrth Gravdal folding winter tyre. It has tungsten carbide spikes in an aluminium housing, so at least that part will not rust. More studs than most in this size (252), plus, quite uniquely for a 700C, it has a folding kevlar bead and high thread count (120 TPI) which means it is lighter and more supple than the average winter “tractor” tyre. Very expensive but ygwypf.

  2. I have Suomi studded tires (ordered Nokian but these came, appear to be made by Nokian…) that worked great but are showing a bit of rust. What to do before I store them for the ‘warmer months’ here in Chicago.

  3. Interesting ideas ! I was enlightened by the details . Does someone know if my company could possibly get a blank TX 130-U copy to complete ?

  4. Hello,
    Are there any reasons why you did not discuss the Schwalbe line of winter bike tires? I have been riding Marathon Winter studded tires on two of my bikes in an urban street setting for many years (4th year on my Dahon folding bike and 2nd year on my hybrid winter bike conversion). I have nothing but good to say about them.

    1. i have been using Schwalbe here in northern Sweden for 5 or 6 winters now and rate them as much more durable, especially when considering the rubber, than Nokian… i ride daily and have put many, many miles on these tires with only great things to say about them ๐Ÿ˜€ i only came here because i was curious about inserting studs to a 20″ front tire for a Bullitt frieght bike… otherwise i have no doubt that Schwalbe is the solution ๐Ÿ˜‰

      1. Is there a 20″ studded tire for a trail-a-bike that will match a 26″ winter tire (such as, for example, the Ice Spiker Pro Schwalbe tire or equivalent)? Thanks.

  5. If using homemade studded tires, can you just run tubeless tires and not worry about tire liners? Or will air leak out around the screws?

    1. Tubeless with preparation. If installing regular screws drilled from inside out use a FLEXIBLE but strong contact cement on every screw head inside the tire. make sure to cover the heads with enough cement. Allow to dry for several days then add a layer or two of lightweight but strong adhesive tape. Allow to dry and stick completely to the tire over several days. Inflate the tire with sealant and test over several rides. There will be leaks but the sealant will take care of that. Using this tubeless setup and tire pair for 8 years with no issues. My best setup is 4 years old and still going strong as tubeless. I used screw in, carbide tipped studs outside in and dipped/sealed EACH stud with WATERPROOF Loctite flex adhesive. Magic Mary up front and Nobby Nic in the rear. approx 200 studs each tire. Great in deep snow, flawless on any kind of ice, ice ruts, etc. Make sure the studs are sized correctly (8mm amd 9mm in this case) and DO NOT penetrate the carcass of the tire. This is critical to preserve options for trailside flats using a tube. To this day I have not lost a single stud. A little worn but All the spares studs are sitting in the garage, waiting…..I do not ever use this setup on pavement. Happy Trails!

  6. Excellent blog! Do you have any hints for aspiring
    writers? I’m hoping to start my own blog soon but I’m
    a little lost on everything. Would you recommend starting with a free platform like WordPress or go for a
    paid option? There are so many choices out there that I’m completely
    overwhelmed .. Any ideas? Cheers!

  7. Thanks, great blog! I too am running Schwalbe Marathon’s in the winter (26×2.25). Work great on ice and are good in powder snow up to about 3″ or so… The tires do not have large knobs so they don’t do well in 2 or more inches of wet/heavy snow. Surprisingly a 700 x 28 road tire does quite well in untracked snow covered roads and trails. The tire will knife through several inches of snow and I found good traction.

  8. Hi,

    Grest Blog?

    Tell for a powerful E-BIKE?

    Which Ice stud tires should I buy?
    Spoke to Schwalbe, they said no ice studs for electricity? ๐Ÿ™
    Best
    Jorn

  9. Given that your #1 recommendation is the SCHWALBE Marathon Winter, and that this blog is marked as being updated for 2019/2020, I’m surprised that you don’t mention the existence of the SCHWALBE Marathon Winter *Plus* which I believe may have come out in 2018?

    To me this tire offers nearly total upside to the non-Plus version, the only negative is higher price. The major difference is that there are four rows of studs across the width of the tire, I believe making the total stud count 210 on a 27″ tire. They appear to be equally spaced across the width — which means none run right down the middle. The advantage here is by adjusting tire inflation day to day, you control how many studs are engaged: for icy conditions keep pressure low so all four are in nearly constant contact with the ground, while on days the pavement is ice-free, maximum pressure means except when corning only the inner two rows of studs engage the pavement. I recall they also might have improved puncture resistance, the regular Marathon WInters are a “4” on their scale and the Plus are a “5?”

    p.s. for US readers, they were hard to find and crazy expensive here, at least back in 2018. I recall around $100 or ore each. But they were pretty affordable if you buy from a German seller and had them shipped, especially if you have other things to buy at same time and are paying flat rate shipping to US (I paid 25 euro shipping). Just be prepared to wait a few weeks!

  10. Hi I am making tinier homes Wich are capable of quarantine living in winter months. Shower, toilet, etc. With bicycle hitch. I am looking to recycle metal, and manufacture my own rims if necessitated. But really I want bicycle snow tires, and or an “off the shelf” tire and rim solution. 20″ is about the smallest for contact area and steerability on snow ice, any ideas for something like load bearing spoke sleeves, or something capable of spreading a 1000lbs load across 4 tires? Since my tinier homes only weigh about 250lbs dry weight, add two people at 250lbs each, and backpacks, that’s why 1000lbs… I am planning a solid tire core, and bearings other than bicycle bearings, perhaps a dual bearing (bicycle bearings, with the axle in secondary bearings in case of failure under power) driven by a DC motor set, for the eventuality of no tow trike, or self propelled movement for emergency use. Disk brakes, few gears, and low gears only. If you have ideas I am listening… Since it sounds like snow cats (from multiple sources)are the way to go, I am wondering if this is really viable or if I need to tool up for supplying my nitche market? As I am already attempting to stage small scale recycling, and product manufacture, I don’t mind doing it myself but a side by side price comparison, supply chain analysis, and or loan for overhead/stock, is much easier to approach with all the information, and options. Also quite honestly I might wind up using deer cart tires as a temporary alternative, but the ride will be hard to control, and bumpy like an alligator with warts… And backup drive system far more complex… Although I can get my weight rating all day. Also it parks on levelers at night to eliminate parking brake issues.

  11. It was always my understanding that with any kind of snow tire that you do not want the snow to shed (mud yes, snow no). This is why M&S (Mud and Snow) tires are a misnomer as one tire will not be good for both conditions.

    Mud will fill a tread and turn the surface into a smooth slippery surface that will not grip. Hence the need for deep, widely spaced lugs that shed the mud as best as possible. Snow, on the other hand, will stick in the tread and provide grip by the snow in the tire sticking to the snow on the road. I have read that the more the tread areas are perpendicular to the direction of ration that better grip you will achieve.

    The Saami from Finland wore snow boots made from reindeer hide with the animal’s fur still on them, including the soles. These would be treacherous to wear on your kitchen floor but the snow would pack and stick to the fur on the sole, which in turn would stick to the snow covered ground, providing excellent traction.

    Just some thoughts, I am sure there are a lot more factors at play when analyzing the performance of any winter snow tire. It’s just that I constantly read about large treads and “shedding snow” which in my experience is not what you want…cheers!

  12. After all the studs are installed, inspect the tire to ensure that they are all properly seated and secure. Make any necessary adjustments.

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